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Disclaimer: I used WOVO in the end.  I don't claim it to be the best way, only that it was the way I felt comfortable with.  There is also a 13 year age difference between us.  Again I know some will find fault with this, but try to take both these as what I'm happy with and not something I'm telling anyone else to do.  :-)  (Flame retardant suit on) Here goes...

I had spent some time writing to a few women in Ukraine and Russia and had continued to narrow down my list as some months past.  There was one that I was very interested in, that I had met from one of the free sites.  In fact, all of the women I wrote to in the beginning and throughout were from one free site or another.  I didn't set much criteria as I wanted to get to know the person behind the photo, but I had mainly searched for 0-10 years difference, with some English ability and preferred if they had children as I do as well. I didn't want any interpreters involved as I wanted to hear what the woman was saying and not what someone wanted me to hear.
In the end, I narrowed my choice to one in October and continued the e-mailing and phone calls.  Toma was actually outside my original age range and I wrote her taking a chance as we have daughters the same age.  In the end, it was the best choice I had made. In mid-October I also got my tickets as I was going to Kiev whether it be for meeting someone, or just a vacation to somewhere I always wanted to go. Its hard for me to get time off of work and my travel schedule is constantly changing, so all I could manage was 11 days off.

My trip was set for January 17 - 27.  I was flying on air miles, so I went the AA - BA route that leave me in London overnight on the way back.

Day one went well.  I left Wichita early in the morning and arrived in London at 6am.  I had  nine hours to kill before my next flight to Kiev and the BA Lounge seemed like the most comfortable way to do it.  I caught some sleep there, had a shower and food before my Kiev trip as I wanted to look at least half Human for my arrival.  The flight from London to Kiev was nearly empty.  Maybe 40 people on the 737-400 and none in Business.  I did see quite a few American passports as we checked in for the flight.  We arrived 15 min late and my first impression was "Wow, big terminal, why only two gates?".  I fumbled through the immigration forms and cleared OK (even after getting in the line that said Dignitaries and Diplomats, they never said anything and went ahead and processed me....seemed faster than those qued in the other lines).  The bags started coming out and I waited.......and waited.......and waited some more.  It was after I was the last one standing there and the belt had stopped that I realized that this was going to be a problem.  I found someone who knew a bit of English and found the bag office.  After a bit of paperwork and searching, I was told that my bags were still in London and would arrive the next evening on the BA flight.  They would deliver them after the flight got in.  Two points here, First is apparently it takes longer than 9 hours for American Airlines to get bags to British Airways at Heathrow as that's how long they had to accomplish this simple task.  Second, I'm so glad I decided to stay in Kiev for a few days instead of heading to the Crimea as they wouldn't have brought my bags to the Crimea.  This also worked well in the end as there was no wait in Customs by this time and I have nothing but a carry-on which they weren't interested in, also, BA would clear my bags for me the next day (or so I thought :-)

I had arranged Toma's pick-up from the other airport earlier in the day as well as to have her brought to meet me for my flight.  Jack came through and Galina was there with my girl (who was worried by this time as the other passengers had left and I was not there).  She cried a bit when she hugged me as Galina gave the info to the baggage people where I would be staying.  From the moment I saw her, I knew that I had made the right choice.  We headed off to the apartment and I had asked to stop to buy a few items like shampoo on the way.  In the store we stopped at a very friendly local picked up on my English and declared "Ahh, American boy, come you drink Vodka with me" to which both Galina a Toma seemed a bit embarrassed by the stereotype.  They got him pried away from me and away we went.  

The apartment was great.  Galina got us settled in and left and it was just us.  Toma looked amazing!! I was surprised that she had already started cooking a meal for me as she thought I would be hungry.  I showered and we ate and talked and just wanted to spend time together.  Since my bags were not there, I had no presents for her that night, they would have to wait until the airline found my bags.  It was a really great day and I was just happy to be in Kiev with her and she felt the same.

(One note:  The stewardess on the Newark to London flight commented that it would no longer be in service after January.  The traffic was just too light to justify it.  As it was, everyone in coach had a complete center section to themselves on that flight except two couples sitting in front.  That's the American Airlines flight in case anyone is planning on using it)

First, Thanks to all for the kind words and comparisons of me to Richie / Opie :-)

Thanks as well for your compliments on Toma and Polina.  The pictures are just some of 180 or so that I took while I was there and I could have made 10 times that amount given the chance.

I had read many of the reports here from the archives and every page that Patrick has stored on here.  It was a great help and a good laugh at times.  Despite some bickering, we are all mostly her for one purpose and I learned a lot from reading what the rest of you have experienced.  I hope something in my words can help someone else in the future.  I still have a lot to learn, but that's what each new day is for :-)

For those of you that have been there and have had a good experience, you know what a great time it can be.  This is one trip I will never regret making no matter what.  It was worth every penny and each small problems encountered really didn't matter.  Toma and Galina seemed more worried about my luggage than I was, but perhaps that was because my clothes were smelling bad by then.

For those of you wondering whether you should go, the answer is a resounding YES!!  Do it any way you feel comfortable with.  Visit on, visit one hundred, but just go!  You'll have fun!  I went in the worst season (winter) and I would gladly do it again.  The people I met were friendly and the woman I met and got engaged to is truly one of my dreams.  She is smart, pretty, feminine, yet takes charge in what she feels is her realm.  She is frugal, but not to an obsession and really goes out of her way to make me feel special.  She's a woman in the true sense of the word, and she always takes the opportunity to stress that she is "My Russian Woman"!  

For those of you going soon, please take the time to post a report, no matter how long or short it is I think we all learn something from it, or at least its a good chance to bring back some great memories.  Pictures are always nice as it helps to connect the face to the name, but I understand the trepidation for some of you about posting pics.

I'll be looking forward to sharing the visa process with you (including the frustrations and the final happy moments in Warsaw).

I hope that by the fall I will have joined that group of you that are married and still posting your early marriage anecdotes for us to share in.

Once again, Thanks to all the guys, and those ladies, who take the time here to help others!

Departing.......

So far my trip has seemed like a month long, but I mean that in a good way.  I had completely forgotten about work, my house remodeling and all other cares and was just enjoying being with girl and her daughter.  Today reality is setting in.  It would be time to leave.

Toma was not happy that I was going (you can kind of see it in her expression in the "Ring Picture".  We discussed the time apart and I agreed that maybe I would return in April or May if the Visa was going slow.

My Simferopol-Kiev flight was scheduled for 11am and we left the apartment at 9:30 for the short drive.  It was quiet in the car on the way over.  The weather was dense fog and the sidewalks slick with a thin coat of ice.  I was secretly hoping that the flight would be delayed or cancelled due to the weather.  We paid the driver to wait to take her and Polina home and they followed me into the airport.  Domestic baggage allowance on Crimea Air is 20kg, I had 35kg on the nose.  I was expecting a hefty charge, but was surprised when asked for only 40gr more.  I'll remember that if we need to haul stuff to Kiev for her departure.

Since she could not follow me beyond, we said our goodbyes there.  I missed her on days without e-mail, I'll really miss her now.  Polina looked so cute all bundled up and she wanted a kiss too.

Off I go on my own again through the airport.  I made it through the metal detector and X-ray without a strip search (something I'm sure the screeners in Wichita and Dallas relish in).
I have an hour to wait for my flight and I notice that all the announcement are being made in Russian.  More like Russian spoken into a megaphone that's being submersed in a bowl of oatmeal.  I line up when others do for the bus, but then discover that I'm the only one in the line with a green boarding card, they all are flying Aerosvit and I'm in the wrong line, so I sit back down.  I spy some others with Green boarding cards and decide I would follow them if they lined up....My only hope of getting on the right plane.

Our flight is called, we que up and head out.  My first flight on an Anotov AN-24. When I get in line to board I'm told to take my bags to the other side of the plane first, then get back in line.  The first thing I spot is the mechanics doing fuel checks into a mason jar.  I spot the water in the fuel and they apparently do as well as they take a hose and start dumping fuel from the check valve onto the Tarmac. Oh my, I'm going to die....  My bags are loaded and I walk back around.  I find it a good idea not to look at the plane anymore after spying some lap patches with missing fasteners and other anomalies (I'm also a Licensed A&P Mechanic).  I step on the plane and think that I've gone back to the 1950's.  The rear part has forward and aft facing seats across a table in the middle, the forward rows are all front facing seats, but thin tubes with spring wire, cloth and no padding.  If I didn't know better I would swear I was on a C-47.  We are seated, the door closed and de-icing begins.  I see the ice coming off the windows and steam rising....Oh no, surely they aren't using Hot Water.  As the crew moved to the other side I see the windows begin to re-freeze, though this time its not rhime icing, its clear.  I quit looking as its better that way :-)
The engines crank forever and we start.  Shortly before takeoff we are given a piece of orange candy.  I stuff that in my pocket for later.  The plane is full, but I'm the only English speaker in earshot so I put on some headphone and stare straight ahead.  We get some announcement and next comes a small plastic cup of water or soda, then a wrapped plastic tray with a roll, cheese, a wafer cookie bar and a piece of chocolate, again more liquid is served, this time cherry juice (coolaid?).......I think of Rev. Jim Jones and kindly decline.

The rest of the flight is uneventful.  Its noisy without the headphones.  I would suggest them or earplugs for anyone fling an AN-24.  We arrive in Kiev on time and Galina is waiting.  Her driver is not there as traffic is bad.  Putin, Shevardnadze, and other eastern leaders are coming in for a summit the next day and the police are practicing closing streets today.  We go to the train station to store my luggage until I leave later (its 1pm and my flight is not until 8:45pm).  Galina spends the next few hours taking me to various markets to shop.  I manage to pick up more CD's (Wow, ArchiCAD, Office XP, Norton2003 for $2, gee I wonder if its a licensed version....I better take it home and check :-).  I also buy some souvenirs for my desk and others at work as well as one of those Soviet watches.
Next stop.....Coffee!  We found the closest thing to Starbucks as we could and I had some great pastries an a mocha, ahh, heaven in Kiev! The final place was the internet cafe.  It was Sunday and three were crowded, but we found space at a fourth one and relaxed for an hour.  I got caught up on the mail and sent Toma a note as well as announcing my engagement to a few via e-mail.  Time was up and we would need to head to the railway station for my bags and then the airport.  I realized then that I had walked miles that day through Kiev, but felt fine.  Here I complain when I have to walk 3 blocks.

Galina got me to the airport with plenty of time to spare.  We said goodbye and I headed to the customs desk.  I chose the Green Line and was only asked how much money I had with me and for my passport.  I only claimed the American cash and was waived on through.  The waiting hall is huge, but with little traffic at that time of night.  I did notice that there were quite a few young and pretty Russian ladies heading to London on the flight.  I would guess university age and maybe that's how they got the visa.  The flight went well and we arrived within 15 min of schedule.  Low and behold my bags are there too, amazing :-)

I need to get to Gatwick for my morning flight, but the Transit Link bus has stopped running for the night.  I opt against getting a hotel as I know that I will only get a few hours sleep anyway.  The lady suggests Jet Link at the counter, which can be found in the central bus station.  I found another bus marked "Oxford - Heathrow - Gatwick" and that driver tells me that Jet Link is 17 Pounds and he is 12 Pounds, though since I only had American cash he gave me a lousy exchange rate.  I didn't care, I just wanted to settle in at Gatwick.

The rest is uneventful.  I got some coffee and food at McDonalds (the only place open in Gatwick at midnight) and stretched out on a bench (passport and wallet in front pocket, briefcase and jacket under my head.  I didn't care if they stole my luggage, I only wanted to get home and have Toma's documents with me!!!! :-)  Besides, my luggage has developed a social life of its own on this trip.  2 flights left and they went without a hitch (I did move seats on the London Dallas flight when they guy next to me pulled out a copy of "Out" magazine and started staring at the Pictures of topless Men......Hey, to each his own, but I'm an engaged man now!!!! :-)

Anyone getting bored yet?

Ah, my first day of bad weather.  Its raining lightly this morning, but rather mild.  That will cancel any walking about plans we have for early morning.  This morning I was relegated to Tea for breakfast.  There was no coffee in this apartment and I think Toma is secretly happy about that :-)  I do have a can of Turkish coffee that her Mom gave me, but no sense taking a chance.

We decide to head back to Simferopol after breakfast as its still raining.  Her friends husband offers to drive us back there.  I felt bad about him using his gas after giving us the apartment too, so I give him something to cover both and he seems happy.  Quite a large man with a deep voice that speaks some English but I have a hard time understanding it through the deep tone.

Back the way we can, only its foggy and raining through the hills until we reach the outskirts of Simferopol.  I notice quite a sharp contrast between the City Apartment blocks and some of the smaller communities just outside the city.  It almost looks like little subdivisions popping up....Oh my god, urban sprawl has reached Ukraine.  I also noticed quite a few houses are in various stages of being finished.  Some look like the owners are living in the part that is done and finishing as they go.  So it that block a type of sand stone?  Almost looks like some of the Cut Coral blocks I see in the Middle East.

We arrived back before noon today and my first task was to watch Polina while the ladies go shopping for food.  We have a bit of a communications gap and I'm not understanding some of what she is saying (I later found out that when she was running around the house she was saying "Tickle Me" and "You can't catch me").  Polina becomes frustrated several times with my not understanding and decides that whacking me on the head will help.....I quickly put a stop to that notion.  The ladies are home and I'm saved!  

I also got to meet another friend of hers today and the three girls spend a couple hours together in the kitchen, in return, I get full control of the remote and 10 all Russian channels to watch.

Again she decides to cook for me instead of going out somewhere.  Its not easy fitting 5 around the small table, but the food is great and I'm feeling right at home now.

I'm also trying to fix her computer for her.  It crashed 2 weeks before my arrival and we had been down to sending text messages on the cell phones for the last two weeks.  It just needed a reload of windows.

Her one friend that teaches her English also helps us this evening with filling out all the paperwork (G325's for her and Polina) that we will need.  Toma had taken some time during the previous week to gather Birth Certificates, Divorce Decrees and the other documents she felt were needed after I sent her the link to Doc Steen's site.  She read it completely and was well prepared.  All had been notarized and translated.  I managed to download the G-325A on her computer and I typed it all in so we didn't need to fill in all those copies by hand.  With the forms printed now, we relax....

The rest of the day passes uneventful.  One of her friends takes Polina for the night so we can be alone.

Day 7:

The friends are back early.  I had time to sneak in some coffee while she was showering, though it now seems its OK to have a couple cups in the morning and then a couple later on.  I did notice that she has been substituting my coffee for Decaf when she makes it for me.......Grrr, Decaf???  Same as a Brown Crayon dipped in Hot Water.  Oh well, life's full of compromises.

Today was shopping day. Another friend stops by before we leave and now I've gotten to meet all the ladies she has written about.  This one has a fiance in Holland.  All her friends were really great ladies.  They all spoke English quite well and that let me converse quite a lot with them, which was great!

Off we go to the market.  Toma wants to take the mini-bus for 60 kp, I'd rather just take the taxi, but she wins.  First stop in the book market.  She had been looking for a copy of the Webster's English - Russian Dictionary.  The big one with 180,000 words.  We found it there and at a good price so I bought it for her.  I also looked around for more CD's or books, but found none that I needed.  Since it was Saturday, it was quite crowded and I did notice that there seems to be very little need to go in a normal store as you can buy just about anything you need from people on the sidewalks or in the bazaars.  Food, Milk, eggs, trinkets, batteries, toys, smokes, you name it.  Our next stop was the computer store.  While fixing her computer I notice that the 14" monitor she had looked terrible.  The Blue gun was going out and everything had an awful green tint to it, so I wanted to buy her a new monitor.  We hit three stores and I finally found a 17" Samsung for a little more than $100.  More than I would pay here, but not bad.  I noticed that they had some full no-name systems at a reasonable price ($400 - $600) and better yet, they had good components in them, not "no Name" stuff.  I told her if the computer goes out again, to let me know and I would send her the money for a new one (we will give the computer to her parents when she leaves so they can stay in touch).  Now with book and monitor in hand, we have no choice but to take the taxi :-)  Good planning!

We get home and I set everything up.  It looks much better now and my eyes feel good.  I checked my e-mail and found 250 messages....Argh, I wonder what my work in box looks like.  

I'm feeling that I don't want to leave now.  I know the time is getting close and I feel so much at home.  I do miss my daughter though, but ponder to myself if I could really live over there someday.  We had talked about it and I told her that I would move there if she wanted if it weren't for my ex and her visitation time (I have custody of our daughter, but we get along well and share the time 50/50 with her).  We even discussed someday buying a home in Yalta or Alushta area and using it for vacation until I retire.  I wonder if the Antonov company needs any Aerospace Engineers?

Toma is anxious about something, but the message isn't coming across.  I'm thinking that its the idea of our parting soon, but it turns out differently.  One of her friends comes in to talk to me.  She said Toma told her of my proposing by the castle and she thought that was great and if I was going to get her a ring.  I had offered twice, but she said nothing more on the subject so I thought I would get one in the Gold Souks of Dubai on my next business trip, though I really wanted Toma to pick it out.  Toma came back in the room and asked if we could go today.  The anxious mood before was her wanting me to offer to get her the ring, not to ask for it and time was getting short.

Back out to town we went to find a Jeweler late on a Saturday afternoon.  With luck, two of the three were still open.  Though we were finding it a problem to find a ring in her size (15.5 Russian....5.5 - 6 American).  I told her to pick anyone that she wanted in the last store and we would get it sized, or she could after I left.  If I would have done this with my ex-wife, I would be leaving the Jewelry store with a small mortgage, but Toma picks out a very nice, small, Russian diamond surrounded by smaller stones with white and yellow gold.  It looks great on her and I ask the price........About $300, but he doesn't take Visa like the first store.....  So, back out to the ATM we go.  We made it in time and while we were gone the Jeweler called another friend that agreed to stay open until we could get there and he would size it for us tonight.  On the way to cross the street using the tunnels, I spy a flower shop and buy 11 long stemmed roses for her. She wants to take the mini-bus again, but I point to the time and we agree the taxi is best.  It turns out that this other place is right close to her apartment.  After a 1/2 hour of work, the ring now fits and this second Jeweler dismisses any effort to pay him for his work, offers his congratulations and sends us on our way with a smile.

We get home and her friends are getting ready to leave.  They had watched Polina for us and now wanted to go out for the night.  Toma is really enjoying showing them her ring and saying that its a piece of me with her. They have to leave though, so we say our goodbyes to them as I would not see them again this trip.  Her one friend give me a smile and a thumbs up as she heads out the door.

We tried to go out to dinner tonight, but all the places are either full, real noisy, or topless (we have a four year old in tow :-), so after some walking around, we decide to celebrate at home.  Toma makes some dinner and I start packing as I leave in the morning for Kiev.  Its hard stuffing all the gifts, both for me and my daughter, in the bags.  After dinner we gather the rest of the paperwork and she signs it all.  Now we just spend the rest of the evening talking about what will be coming up, life here in the states and other things.  I really don't want to leave......

It may be different from DC, but for me the three times I did it, my ticket would have been $1200 or more.

My layover was over-night. I found a nice hotel near Gatwick for about $69. It was actually not a bad way of breaking up the trip. I didn't mind the layover. In some way, it was better to do the overnight than to sit in an airport for 6 hours... IMHO.

(BTW, my favorite connection was the American Airlines flight through Gatwick. I like Gatwick better than Heathrow... and there is an Admiral's Club there which was a nice place to relax (and sleep in if you get there early enough.) Also, you fly the 777 with extra leg-room which is so much better than the gawd-awful Delta/Air France flight I took. Every time someone in front of me reclines their seat on a Delta flight, I feel like I am a dentist waiting to examine their teeth... )

40K from Oct 15 to May 15

60K otherwise

90K Business class 120K First Class (no season break)

If you don't have an Admirals Club card, AA will let you in on a Business or First Class International on the day of travel.

British Airways will let you in on any ticket based on having a Gold, Platinum or Executive Platinum card.  

More food and drink choices, better sleeping chairs and showers in the British Airways executive lounge......Also, free internet access on 8 computers in BA

She was born in Evpatoriya, but lives in Simferopol now.  Her folks are still there though.

I sure hope the coffee thing changes :-)  Its an old Navy habit that's gonna be hard to quit if not.......But then again, she's worth it! :-)

Get some of that at the grocer, and make her a cup with that cream and some suger.

I've turned more non coffee drinkers into coffee drinkers with that than you can imagine...

Don't take her to Starbucks, though... If she will only drink that high falutin' stuff, you'll go broke...

I woke up at 5am and that was it for me, no going back to sleep.  I guess I was fully adjusted now as that's my usual wake up time.  I had been up earlier around 3:30 when I heard that water come back on through out the building...Interesting sound of a 100 toilets filling at once :-)

The family was up at 7 and already making the breakfast.  I managed to squeak by this morning without breakfast as it wasn't going to float on the congac that well :-)  I opted for coffee but even that was going down slow this morning.

By 10 we had repacked and they found someone to drive us to Yalta.  We tooked the route through Simferopol and ALushta on the way.  We did stop at a roadside cafe for drinks and pictures by the stream out in back of it.  I guess its a popular place as I saw its advertisement again in the Crimea Air inflight magazine.  I could barely stay awake on the drive and I think all three of us in back were sleeping at one point or another.  The 110 dregrees worth of heat coming out of the car heater didn't help either.

Alushta seems nice and maybe a quieter place than Yalta for a break.  We didn't stop, just drove through.  The day was beautiful and in the high 40's with full sun.  They remarked how bad the weather was before my arrival and that I must have brough good weather with me (it really was good all throughout the trip).

We arrived in Yalta and took up residence in a friends "spare" apartment next to their's.  It was a simple place, 2 bedrooms, a kitch and bath, but more than enough for us.  We didn't waste much time there.  Her friends husband had agreed to take us to Masdandra to some old summer home up there and the winery.  We toured the home and it was great.  I think I could live there just fine :-) The Babushka's kept following us around to make sure our tie on shoe protectors stayed on so we wouldn't ruin the floor, but I think they make us wear those so they wouldn't have to dustmop.  Off to the winery next and that was nice.  I took some great pictures and bought some even better wine.  I just wish I would have bought more, or had room for more in my luggage. Then again, who needs clothes, they're highly over-rated....just wished I would have thought of that then.

The next stop was the waterfront amusement park.  We walked along a bit and let Polina ride a scooter for awhile.  She had fun!  The we were off to the boat to take us to Swallows Nest Castle.  It was getting windy now and the boat was good sized, but rocking alot.  Her friend doesn't do well with moving boats and was a light shade of green for most of the trip. Toma was only slightly better with it. Polina and I enjoyed it though. The castle was well worht the trip out there.  Its a long walk up many stairs after getting there though.  

Once I saw the castle and the view I knew that this would be the perfect place.  We walked around a bit and then I asked her friend to watch her daughter for a moment.  Its then that I asked Toma to marry me standing by the castle on the cliff.  A perfect spot, late in the day with the sun starting to go down.  Cold, but I didn't feel it at this point.  Yes was all I was hearing and feeling!

Back to the boat we went, though both her and her friend wouldn't get on until the last minute because of the rocking motion.

We celebrated in a restaurant right off the walk near the amusement park.  Nice place decorated in a tropical fish motif.  The food was excellent, though all ala carte, and dinnner and drinks for 4 was just over $50. I wouldn't care if it was $250, I was happy after hearing Yes.

Back to the apartment (we walked the whole way....) and rest.

Notes:
If in Yalta, see the castle, its a 1/2 hour boat ride there, 1/2 hour back and they give you a 1/2 hour up there.  I guess you can eat there in the evening too.
Great photos from up there as well, bring a camera!
Did I mention that she said Yes ? :-)

But... let me get this straight:

You wrote to one woman only...

Travelled 7000 miles to see just her...

Had her meet you in Kiev so you could spend more time with her...

Took her to Yalta...

And proposed to her... at sunset ... in a CASTLE???

::: hands over the crown which says: "Hopeless Romantic" :::

Here you go... this is yours now ...

Welcome to the club :-)

When we arrived at the lot there was a guy sitting on a fence beside the path.  He stopped us and Irina spoke with him.  It turned out that locals didn't have to pay to visit (along the pathway, at least), but foreigners did.  Irina told him I was local and he bought it.

I hope the very best for you and your new family!

Z

OK, our last day in Kiev.  We slept in, but I did manage to get a couple cups of coffee while she was showering (I hope she isn't reading this :-) though she caught me on the last one.  

My clothes showed up...finally.  I hope the guy who delivered them wasn't expecting a tip :-)

Today was shopping day and a tour of Freedom Square.  We ventured forth to the subway relying on Toma's ability to get us around.  It worked fine and our first stop was the train station to buy tickets for out trip to Crimea.  
Its interesting that one end of the station is old and the other end modern.  The place was packed with people, cabbies, and old ladies trying to rent their flats. We booked a first class cabin and headed out to freedom square.

We walked around a bit so I could take some photos and then headed off for some shopping.  First stop was the mall under the square.  She kept teasing me that we should eat at McDonalds (we both hate it).  We browsed around a bit and bought an outfit for my daughter.  I wish I could shop there for all her clothes at those prices.  Next up was the walk the the Metro underground shopping.  We walked the whole distance as it let out quite close to our apartment.  At the far end I started browsing those CD sellers and managed to come away with quite a few CD's :-) I also bought some Russian Pop music CD's in one shop to annoy my friends with. We grabbed some ice cream and headed back to the flat.  We woke up with 30 minutes left to pack before the flat owner came with Galina, our ride to the train.

We made it to the train in time and said goodbye to Galina.  The 1st class cabin wasn't huge, but it was big enough for our luggage and to stretch out in.  We had the great luck of being the last cabin next to the bathroom :-) Close for us, but noisy.  I didn't sleep much and seemed to wake up every few stops.  Toma slept like a baby.

*I want to note that while the bathroom smelled fine during the begining of the trip, I thought I would vomit while trying to brush my teeth in the morning.  I thought those thigs were track dumpers, how could they get to smell that bad?

I took the train for the experience of doing, though I think I will fly next time to Simferopol as the cost is close and I would rather save 13 of those 15 hours.  Then again, after riding that Antonov 24, I'm not so sure :-)

Day four:

We arrived around 8am into Simferopol.  Her friend was there to meet us.  She's been a great help to Toma with English lessons and she knows 5 languages and is studying Arabic now.  More than I could handle.  We grabbed a taxi and headed to her flat.  I've come to notice that no matter how bad some of these buildings look on the outside, when you step into the flats its like stepping into another world.  All of them that I have been in are decorated nice, great furniture and lots of woodwork, silk rugs, very tasteful!  Her place was small, 2 rooms and a bathroom and I joked with her that we would have to seal up 9/10ths of my house when she moved here to make her feel comfortable (my house is 3500 sq ft.....old 1920's style).  

We managed to freshen up some, and repack for a few days away as we were headed to her folks for dinner and overnite as well as seeing her Daughter, then off to Yalta and the are the next day.  Another long taxi ride brought us to Evpatoriya.  

Her folks weren't home, they were at the shop, but came home right away when we called.  I guess they thought I needed more food as they started cooking right away.  Lunch was great and we exchanged some gifts.  They were more than happy to serve me cup after cup of Turkish coffee (Large mugs that is) even over my girl's objections :-)  I think Mom and Dad like me as there gift to me was a coffee and tea set with serving dish....Gee, I wonder who told them that I liked coffee :-)

I finally got to meet her daughter and what a sweetheart she was.  She understands some English but would bop me on the head when I didn't understand her :-)

Her parents place was much lager, 2 full bedrooms, a kitchen and a living room.  I love how every piece of furniture turns into a bed.  I don't think Motel 6 has a chance in Ukraine.

Her parents don't speak a lot of English and Toma is good, but not enough to translate all the time, so her friend was with us and did a great job helping us!  We relaxed after lunch a bit and I found it funny that whenever I walked in the room with the TV they would switch it to BBC or another English channel for my benefit :-)  

Later they took us to the old town area by the seawall and gave us time to walk around.  They had to go back to run their shop.  We walked for quite a bit and I got some great pictures there.  We also stopped and bought bread so Polina could feed the ducks and geese.  There's lots of outdoor clubs and cafes there but most were closed as its winter though I can't wait to see it in the summer.

Back at the house it was nearly dinner time.  They kept encouraging me to take a shower and I couldn't understand why till later.  Dinner was a spread.  Lots of course and everything was presented on the plate like a chef made it, colors, shapes placement, you name it.  I was given Comgac and beer and the toasts began!  Little did I know that finishing the whole bottle of congac and two gian bottles of beer were in the plans and her Dad kept refilling my glasses.  After dinner they had a huge cake that had "Welcometo Evpatoriya John" written on it.  I was completely stuffed and in fear of moving so I wouldn't fall over from the comgac at this point.  

During the dinner toasts, one of mine was used to ask for her parents permission to marry her.  They gladly accepted this idea and again the liqour flowed freely......Its been a few years since college and even longer since the Navy, so I'm a bit out of "Bar Practice" :-)

Now is when they suggested a shower again and when I asked why they said the water would be shut off in 15 min.......Ohhhhh, so I obliged.

I just wished that I could find the water in the kitchen at 2am becuase I was completely dehydrated by then.

Notes:  Plan on eating alot, you'll get fed well
Pack water, you may need it.....I wished I did.
Everyone is so hospitable and welcoming. They really go to great effort to make you feel welcome.
Asking the parents beforehand seemed to please them. I'm glad I did it!
I really need to learn more Russian before I visit them again.

I can't believe that you brushed your teeth it there!

Ah, the memories come flowing back.

I remember needing to take a tremendous dump one night between Dnepro and Odessa... but there was no way in helll I was gonna sit down in there! LOL!  Squeezed that puppy all night till I got to my flat in Odessa the next morning!  I'd been carrying the bloody thing so long by that time, when I was finished I wanted to give it it's own name!

I think next time I will fly (Though I'll have to close my eyes boarding that AN-24.....Mechanics nightmare)

Great pictures, they brought back some great memories :)

Best of luck with the rest of this process... now comes the waiting :P

Peace,

-Deckard

I recognize many of the places and your pics make me want to get back over there very soon. As for Yalta, the thought of buying a house there crossed my mind more than once! Crimea is spectacular, and I reckon it would be a good long term investment, but would an empty house attract the wrong attention...? I haven't finished reading your report yet, hopefully it will include some useful impressions of Yalta!

I love the contrast of the mountains with the snow against the sea and some palm trees.  I like all the close by places such as Masandra and Alushta and I think that summer would be perfect there.  Now I see what the Soviet leaders and other Russians knew all along about that place.  Its perfect!  I would need a boat though :-)

I imagine my retirement dollars would go a little farther there, but its still a ways away.

As for the luggage and other hardships  during the trip, they must be far behind you, after living, in real life fairy
tale.
Your are the proof that this board has a reason to be.
Thanks
michel

Ahh, both of them that is! Congratulations. You did well. She looks like an emotional girl. You can see it in her expression.

Steve

Good story.  Good photos.  Congratulations!

Since I had managed some sleep on the flights and at the airport lounge, I felt pretty good getting up at a normal time.  The day was to be nice and in the 40's, which was warmer than the Wichita I left or even Dallas the day I passed through.  This was my first chance to see that breakfast was going to be much different than here at home (then again, most days that just means coffee on the drive into work for me).  Cold sausage, Cereal, Fruit, Cheese, black bread and pourable yogurt would be the offering. It was all good though, but a bit much for me.....I'm assuming I'll be on the compromising end of that eventually :-)

Galina stopped by and wanted to take us to Lavra (sic), the monastery there in Kiev, as it was the day of the Epiphany and there would be many people there.  I got my first taste of the subway and I must say that's one heck of an efficient operation and you can't beat the price!  When we got the the Monastery it was quite crowded with people all bringing back their holy water.  We walked the grounds a bit and took some photos before going to the caverns.  Its a really nice place and worth a visit in Kiev.  Some of the Monks are mummified in the caverns and you can view them through the glass coffins there.  Everyone has a candle and the women must wear a head-covering down there.  The people are packed in close together and I did catch the smell of some burnt hair a few times so I'm thinking the head covering might be a good idea for everyone with all those people so close together and all the candles.

After that we headed over to the war museum with the big statue of a woman on top.  It was getting a bit brisk as the clouds remained and now the wind was coming off the river, but again, the museum was well worth the visit.  I like WWII things as my Father was in WWII and told me some great flight stories growing up.  There are three floors worth of exhibits there and I wished we had time to really spend a half a day there.  I did take some photos of the military equipment outside (something I found ironic as 20 years ago I'm sure I would have been jailed for doing the same).  Inside you have to pay extra to take pictures, but it was only 10H more.  There also a little snack shop in the basement.  Its here that Toma started  to figure out that I drink a lot (A LOT) of coffee :-)  This will come to play later.  I was told that coffee is no good for me and that I must drink tea.

There's a Authentic-type Ukrainian restaurant nearby that Galina had pointed out and we had late lunch there.  The food was quite good and they had some live musicians playing and occasionally strolling about (bear with me as I was bad and didn't remember the names of most restaurants we ate in...sorry).  I convinced her to let us take a taxi back as neither her nor I knew the subways very well in Kiev and I wanted some time to rest before the evening (being lost in the tubes of Kiev wouldn't be the rest I was looking for :-)

Galina picked us up that evening to go to the Opera.  Carmen was playing and she had managed to find us tickets.  What a great place the Kiev Opera house is.  I thought I would stand out being in the same clothes now for three days and those consisting of slacks and a turtle neck, but I found people to be dressed from one extreme to the other there.  Toma was really  dressed up nice.  She has some great taste in clothing.  Our seats were 3rd row main floor and center and at about $6 a piece I was amazed! (The VIP delegation from Vietnam was 4 rows behind us).

We had tried calling looking for my luggage that had yet to be delivered several times and got no answer.  Finally, they answered and said they were closed.  Toma called later and they acknowledged that my luggage had made it, but they didn't feel like delivering it that night and would come out in the morning.  My clothes had taken on a life of there own now as they were starting their fourth day with me.  If it lasted any longer I would have to feed them I was sure.

After the Opera we got a ride home and just talked for a couple hours!  I was feeling better about this as every moment passed!!  

Observations:  Add a day to anything the airport promises.  
              Breakfast will now be a requirement, not an option.
              It looks like coffee will be on the way out to be replaced by tea
              Questions are sometimes followed by "That's impossible, you will...." and finished with the answer that she was really looking for :-)
              I should set up a separate frequent flyer account for my bags as they are now touring Europe on their own.

But, they let her go in wearing a baseball cap.

So... maybe they would let a man get away with a catcher's shin guards? ;-)

i also was told "American soft drinks eat through metal, Ukrainian soft drinks are better"

good report, thanks for sharing

I sympathize with your lost luggage problem. It's happened twice to me. First time, it took 4 days for them to finally deliver the bags to my apartment in Kyiv. Second time, it was only 2 days. I now make sure I pack a spare change of clothes in my carry-on.

Sounds like a nice trip.

- Dan

In addition to a change of close I also pack my medications in my carry on luggage. Something to think about if you do take any...

Thanks for taking the time to write a trip report .

A good trip report and some good news was just what we needed .

Thanks for sharing

Best Wishes

Don