OK here it is - my suggestions for some day trips from Cali that are safe(?) and much more interesting than the typical zoo, sugar cane plantation, hacienda BS. I made the mistake of agreeing with my wife on buying a car down in Cali - now I'm kind of on board with it, as I hit the pavement alot over the last 2 weeks.
First, some driving tips - it may seem chaotic at first when driving in Cali proper but it basically boils down to this - buses and potholes - after you become familiar with a road you'll realize that the lanes are meaningless - what you wan't to do is avoid potholes and jockey for position to pass the buses that occupy the right lane - which is typically where you will need to be to change streets to get anywhere.
With passport and US drivers license you are good to go - no problems at checkpoints outside of the city. There is a false rumor that you should not carry your passport when traveling about - that's BS - you'll need your passport when stopped at police or army checkpoints - these are not a big deal. Make a copy of your passport and send it to an email account like yahoo so you can always retrieve it if needed. You'll encounter frequent tolls (peajes) on the roads outside of the city - for a small car expect a 3.7 mil peso fee for each one you pass.
Speaking of cars - last year I rented a nice 4x4 at the National Rent A Car office adjacent to the hotel Inter. I was stopped at every police/army checkpoint while driving through the cafetera zone. No problem - just a hastle - and I always carry packs of Malboro's to hand out as friendly gifts in these situations - Malboro's from the US are like gold.
My wife purchased at my request a "used" car - little did I know that what she had purchased was basically a brand new car that only had 2000 km on it. It's a 2 dooor chevy that is the rave down there now - and having driven it extensively through some tough terrain - I'm on board with it. It's got a peppy engine, wide stance and great ground clearance - I drove it like a jeep. I was not stopped at any checkpoints this trip.
So, here's the scoop:
http://www.picturetrail.com
Album = cancun_hound
I did not have time to massage the photos so it's best to view with a high speed connection:
1:) Pance
This is a stone's throw from southern Cali. Go on a weekend or a holiday when there are lots of people - ironically as close as it is to Cali - it's not exactly 100% safe. From Cali, take the Pance road and follow the river until it dead-ends at the first village (and police station). Take a left and an immediate right and continue up towards Pance. This village is where you'll wan't to grab lunch on your way back down - great chicken soup. The road all the way up is decent - however in some spots they've cemented (like a driveway) tracks so the only hastle is if a bus from Pance is coming down - you'll need to negotiate whom passes whom. Just prior to Pance on the right is a fantastic waterfall - pictures enclosed. Should you wan't to go further up - when in Pance at the first intersection make a dogleg left then right and continue up the gravel road. It terminates at a footbridge (see photos).
2:) Nirvana
My favorite destination close to Cali. This is a private nature reserve just outside of Palmira. From northern Cali, you're looking at 30 minutes to get there. Go on a Saturday or Sunday when it is open to the public and they serve lunch - best food I've had in Colombia - get the steak or trout. To find it, it's best to bring along somebody that's been there before as there are no blaring signs pointing it out. If interested, post here and I can dig up their phone number for specifics - a friend of mine in Colombia knows the family that owns/runs the operation. You will be stunned at what's there. Grab some lunch there at the restaraunt and enjoy the view, then head off on their trail to explore the mountain - 2 options available - short hike (30 minutes) or go all the way up - 3 hours. This trip, I did go all the way up and bumped into to the Colombian army - which is a good sign - this area is safe. I love this place.
3:) Popayan
By far the most dangerous option - but worth a trip to check it out. Although the road is fantastic, to venture here is to venture into unkown security areas as closeby there is some serious sh%t going on. If you really wan't to check out a colonial city I would recommend instead Cartago to the north (but that's not really a day-trip). Anyways - just be careful driving up - accidents are a daily affair on the road - typically caused by downhill traffic having tire blowouts - it can get nasty real quick. Leave Cali early in the morning - although it's only about 120 km, you'll get stuck behind some trucks all the way up. We headed up on a Tuesday with the goal of checking out the Indian market in nearby Sylvia - but that idea was nipped after checking out things in Popayan - too dangerous for a gringo right now (frustrating but learn to go with the flow when travelling about Colombia - never plan too far ahead - you've got to use common sense and listen to the locals). Just follow the signs to the "old city" and find your first parking spot - then head off on foot and explore the city. Take note of where you park - everything appears the same in this "white" city. Make your way via foot to the church overlooking the city - this is where they have the annual progression during semana santa - great photos abound. Grab lunch at the Dann hotel - food is not fantastic but the hotel is sweet - and quiet - a great break from the busy streets of Popayan.
-suerte
any questions just shoot
