Parque Tayrona

[Edge]

I have a friend who is thinking of going to this park near Santa Marta to scuba dive.  During his trips to Venezuela he has dived there several times outside of Caracas.  He recently went to BQ.  He is wondering how the diving is at parque tayrona.  Anyone have any experience there?

My wife last heard it is a little peligroso there.

[Brazilophile]

... in response to Parque Tayrona, posted by Edge on Dec 15, 2002

Edge,

Your question prompted me to register with PL.  I have only lurked on this list but have been an active poster on LWL for several years.  

In August of 2000, I vacationed in Santa Marta with my ladyfriend at that time.  I scuba dive and made several dive trips there.  We stayed at a hotel in Rodadero, the resort part of SM.  The dive shop I used was called Ser Buzo.  It was based in a small fishing town called Taganga (along with MANY other dive shops) but had a store in Rodadero.  The dive fee include driving me to Taganga.  The dive sites were all in Parque Tayrona.  The mountain chain that runs through central Colombia ends at the coast in SM and PT sort of comprises the whole area of coast and mountains where this chain meets the Caribbean sea.  The diving was very good.  There are many different  types of sites to go to and all levels of diving skill can be accomodated.  I met many foreign divers in SM.  There were people from Venezuela but most were European; there was a British couple, a Dutch and German group were camping out in the par.  Some guys were from Israel.  I ran into one other American diver.

As for danger, my observations are out of date but may still be useful.  In the mile or so between Rodadero and SM there is a military base and a recreation area for military personnel.  Both my former ladyfriend and I met people who said that the right wing AUC was active in the area and was known to kidnap people suspected of being FARC sympathizers.  While we were there, FARC made a roadblock of 35 trucks and tractors on the highway between SM and BQ and set it on fire.  This was at dawn and the mess was not moved until evening.  

There previous year I had visited Cartagena.  While scuba diving there, I met an American guy whose father worked for an oil company based in SM.  This guy told me that the company required them to live in Cartagena because it was safer then SM.  The father commuted to work daily in a helicopter.  In addition, apparently whoever their enemy was could hide in the mountains around SM and snipe at people deplaning at the airport.  The company staff was ferried to and from aircraft in bullet proof cars.  I think only high profile people were targets.

So that is my experience with diving in SM.  I hope it helps you.

[valuedcustomer]

... in response to Parque Tayrona, posted by Edge on Dec 15, 2002

When I went to Santa Marta, I was going to go to Park Tayrona on a tour bus, but my novia's mother said it would be too dangerous.  A few weeks ago, two of the most popular tourist hotels in Santa Marta were bombed by the guerillas.

[Cali vet]

... in response to Parque Tayrona, posted by Edge on Dec 15, 2002

There is a fishing village called Taganga just east of Santa Marta but a little before Parque Tayrona that is well known on Lonely-Planet etc. for offering some of the cheapest scuba diving in the world. I haven't been there yet but I did camp at Arecife in the parque. I was told the local restaurants and hammock rental places pay the Autodefensas to keep the guerilla away. The park is popular with the European backpacker crowd.

[Edge]

... in response to Re: Parque Tayrona, posted by Cali vet on Dec 15, 2002

Thanks for the info. CV.  I thought you would probably know about the park.  Hope all is well with you and your caleña.