Another trip report

[Cali vet]

I just returned from a week and a half in Cali. My two goals were to spend time with my novia and get my cedula extranjera. Both missions accomplished. She works a lot on different shifts so I had a lot of time on my hands. Jo was in Cali too so we bummed around when he didn’t have a cita and my girl was at work. One of the things we did was go by the Hotel Valle Real and visit Maritza Bueno (run off for advertising on the board below) at her new agency, “Amor in Cali”. She was at Latin-Internet for years and I consider her a good friend. She was busy starting up and didn’t have a whole lot of women on the website yet but they seemed to be arriving daily to join. While Jo checked them out my interest was purely academic. She invited us to a soire later at the hotel, a sign up party for new girls so we went and I have to say (speaking as a vet) they were all new faces and very attractive. I felt a little embarrassed though because the  lovely crowd was being attended by two “older” guys. Then again maybe I’m being too hard on Jo. More gringos arrived later. Maritza has been in the Cali agency business only a little less time than Luz Amparo, the pioneeress, of Latin Best so she has a pretty good idea of what a broad range of Americans are looking for and I’m sure she’ll turn it into one of the major Cali agencies in no time. Anyway enough shameless shilling for my good friend (but it’s all true). I’m personally out of the market for the moment and I hope for good.

So about my novia…as I said she worked just about all the time but had a full free day on Sunday so I went by the travel agency at Confenalco and got us a tour package to the Parque Del Café. It cost $41 for two and included breakfast and lunch. It’s an all day jaunt that leaves the Confenalco parking lot at 5:30am sharp…well ok lets say 5:40.  It’s a 2 ½ bus ride north towards Pereira through beautifull country especially after Tulua, steep but low hills with cattle and bosques of guadua, that tree that looks like a giant bamboo. The park is by far the most well tended tourist site I’ve ever seen in Colombia bar none. Several very interesting museums, beautifully tended gardens everywhere and a nice long walk through native forest with many of the trees and plants identified with genus and species. Also some silly “spirit” sculptures along the way but hey…their fotogenic. There’s also the “monta rusa” amusement park ride which is really kind of fun. I’m just glad it was over in three minutes since on the tour you do that right after lunch. If you go try to skip the stupid orquidia show unless you have a penchant for mechanized singing dolls. It’s just for kids and you’ll learn nothing usefull about orchids. In sum: if you’re serious about someone and you both like the outdoors this is a great date from Cali! (If you want contact info on Confenalco e-mail me).

My novia has an honest-to-god vacation in April so I’m going back and I’m going to take her to Isla Providencia. It’s the sister isle to San Andres but with cabanas and a big mountain in the middle and some mean mother hormigas instead of high-rise hotels and discos. If all goes well that’ll be my next report.

[Edge]

... in response to Another trip report, posted by Cali vet on Mar 28, 2002

Hey C-V, I also have gone to this national park and enjoyed it immensely..  

My cuñada has a car so I went with her and her boyfriend and my wife and I.  We spent the day because as you indicate, it is a 2-1/2 to 3 hour range drive.  Beautiful country though, especially after you leave the Valle and head into Pereira.  

I found it interesting that coffee will only grow on a narrrow elevation band. They had a map showing the elevation range and it was not very wide.  My wife and I took the tram down the hill and then the hike through the native forest on the way back up.  We all took our pictures with the various "spirit" scultures.  What is kind of interesting is  my companions all recognized these forest spirits by their names.  I guess they are part of their culture...My wife never wanted to stay at the Pension Stein Hotel because of it's age and the possibility of "fantasmas" and I would consider her a "modern" woman in most respects.

I agree this is a great place to take a date, etc. but how did you feel about any trouble from the rebels??  I know when we went there had not been any rebel activity around there but it seemed as you cross over out of the Valle into the hills, it is vulnerable to road block ambushes.  My companions were not worried about running into any trouble, so I went with them.  They were much more worried about the area around Lago Calima and the road heading toward Buenventura because you really head into mountainous areas there where the rebels are know to operate.

Did you ever hear of any rebel activity in the areas going to the park??

Good luck on your relationship with your novia.

Edge.

[Cali vet]

... in response to Re: Parque del Café.., posted by Edge on Mar 29, 2002

Hi Edge, glad you had a good park trip too. The next time I go I'd to stay at one of the nearby hotels and do some early morning walking and birdwatching along those paths.
You can certainly learn anything you could possible want to know about coffee there.

Like your companions no one on my trip was concerned about guerilla actions. The route north from Cali seems to be pretty "sana". A friend of mine took a bus all the way to Bogota and back with out a second thought. But you're right about the Cali-Buenaventura road. Before things firmed up with my novia a girl who lives in Dagua (halfway between) invited me to come up and stay over. My friend who went to Bogota said don't go to that town and I didn't. Very recently the FARC and Auto-defensas duked it out up there and I think eighteen were killed. I did take that route a couple of months ago to get to Buenaventura and the boat to Juanchaco but things were quieter at the time. On this last visit I met an American at Luz Amparo's who had just gone up to Calima the day before and loved it.  

[Evan]

... in response to Another trip report, posted by Cali vet on Mar 28, 2002

Hey Cali Vet
How many times you been to Cali yourself ?? Just wondering ...seems you go there an awful lot.

[Hoda]

... in response to Re: Another trip report, posted by Evan on Mar 28, 2002


Evan, it's very easy to get addicted to Colombia or any SA country. Despite all their problems, there's so much to take in, other than the ladies...(LOL). Being careful & selective about where you go outside the main cities, can be a very very rewarding experience....

Go see for yourself, if you haven't already done so...

[Cali vet]

... in response to Re: Another trip report, posted by Evan on Mar 28, 2002

It's true, I am becoming personally resposible for the the summer vacations of the executives at American Airlines and also for my own financial ruin. Do you know of a twelve step program?

[pack]

... in response to Re: Re: Another trip report, posted by Cali vet on Mar 28, 2002

sounds like you had a good time vet. welcome back.

[Pete E]

... in response to Another trip report, posted by Cali vet on Mar 28, 2002

I'm not sure from your post if you have been to Providencia before.Just in case not I will give you my imput.On our honeymoon in February,2000 we spent 4 days in San Anreas and then went to Providencia for 2 days.There is not much there.There are no good hotels,just some little motel like places.We stayed at the best one,kind of on the opposite end of the island from the little town.I made our guide show us every hotel first and he was right,it was the best(I didn't believe him).An OK little place,it was cheap,$30 or so,my first Colombian experience with no hot water.There is really no town on the island just a few buildings by the docks on what I think was the north end.All the intertainment there is natural.We took a boat trip around the island.They streched it in to a 4 hour or so deal,stopping at friends or partners places to let us buy food and drinks.If you are in to diving I think its supposed to be good.We ate at a little restaurant on the beach by our motel and got eaten alive by mosquitos.It was sundown.I didn't notice them during the day.
To me it was pretty remote and boring compared to San Andreas or Cartegena.I wish we would have added the 2 days to our stay at those places.
A lady at the desk at our hotel in Bogota talked me in to going there.She said it was so peacefull.Except for the mosquitos that was true.

Pete

[Hoda]

... in response to Re: Providencia, posted by Pete E on Mar 28, 2002

n/t

[Cali vet]

... in response to Sounds like Tumaco.....LOL    n/t, posted by Hoda on Mar 29, 2002

Hoda your account of your trip to Tumaco was one of the more interesting posts I've read.

[Cali vet]

... in response to Re: Providencia, posted by Pete E on Mar 28, 2002

Pete E,

Thanks for the tips. No I haven't been there but from what you describe and others too it is exactly what I'm looking for and I think I would be miserable in San Andres. I'm a bird-watcher, plant studier and hiker so staying up all night in those San Andres discos would just ruin my morning hikes. I will be happy spending the mornings hiking the island and afternoons cavorting in the sea and my novia tambien. Despite being beautifull and a city girl she loves to climb the Loma de Tres Cruces every free day she gets. She's to the top and back down by 8:30am! Is this girl going to kill me?

My package includes either Cabanas El Recreo or El Encanto in Aguadulce (Freshwater) the main town. Do you know either of them and reccomend one over the other? No hot water? I never have hot water in Colombia. It's easy unless you're in the mountains or Bogota. Then it's a whore's bath for me! I'll watch out for those launcha operators. Thanks.

[Pete E]

... in response to Re: Re: Providencia, gracias, posted by Cali vet on Mar 28, 2002

I don't know those hotels by name,our driver showed us all of them and they are probably similar.There is a dock by the little town.We caught the boat there as they were going by but they start out of a beach on the other end,I would say south west side of the island if the town is north.Your hotel operator will know about them.
Also it was the only place I ever drove in Colombia.I rented a dune buggy for about $30.It was a kick to drive untill it started raining(no top).There was no traffic at all,I probably didn't see 20 cars driving all around the island.
Sounds like you are one of those persons who will enjoy the solitude of Providencia.
I've gotten used to cold showers since then,especially staying with my in laws.At the time I was there I had only stayed at the Crystall Palace(old home of latin love) and 5 star hotels.My wife got up in tyhe morning,took a shower,no comment.I get up turn on the water,and "hey,theres no hot water".She just looks at me like,so?You don't have hot water at home do you?(I just figured this out).I have sort have gotten used to it.You just don't linger under it,splash yourself,soap up and then rinse quickly.Yes Bogota would be an entirely different deal without hot water.In Cali its like 85 degrees most of the time so the water isn't that cold.But Bogota,maybe 70 during the day and 50 at night?I bet the cold water is cold there.

Pete

[Cali vet]

... in response to Re: Re: Re: Providencia, gracias, posted by Pete E on Mar 28, 2002

Yeah, no hot water in Bogota? Ugh!!! I've always said if you like camping you won't be uncomfortable in Colombia or the RD. However if you don't, it'll be hard to find accomodations your'e comfortable with outside the big cities. DON'T ever be tempted to go to Juanchaco!
Dune buggy? Hey I might try that. Seriously, it's nice to have your input, different styles and all, before I go. Thanks.

[El Diablo]

... in response to Another trip report, posted by Cali vet on Mar 28, 2002

CV,

Is it an ID card issued by Colombia but for foreigners?  If yes, is there an advantage to having one?

El Diablo

[Cali vet]

... in response to cedula extranjera, posted by El Diablo on Mar 28, 2002

El D

Yes it is the national identification card. Everyone in Colombia, Republica Dominicana, Ecuador, any latin-american country must have one and you're requiered to apply for it in Colombia within sixty days of entering with a visa, in my case the visa pensionado. With it you can open bank accounts and other usefull things and you no longer need to carry a copy of your passport. In my case there is no cancelation or renovation date. In other words I can can come and go and stay as long as I want,  including forever.