... in response to curious about Manizales..., posted by Edge on Aug 6, 2001Hello Edge,
Manizales is physically beautiful, and very (and I mean VERY) mountainous. IT reminded me a little bit of San Fransisco, without cable cars, of course. If I did my math right, it's at about 7,500 feet. In terms of climate-- spectacular, if a bit chilly for me. I could get used to it if I had to ( and all I need is an excuse;) (I'm from Alabama, and I'm a lowlander).
I have to admit, I did get sick while there, probably from the altitude-- it lasted about two days.
The city itself is growing. From her abuela's apartment we could see into the mountains where a new barrio is being built. Also, we did travel through most of the city-- even the 'bad' parts.
I have to tell you, if you go to Manizales, be prepared to speak Spanish. During my stay I met one english speaker, Luisa's (my comprometida's) brother, who worked in New York for three years. No, two... I met a gringo in overalls who has lived there for 11 years, and who teaches English in private lessons.
Manizalenos are different from, for instance, citizens of Bogota. For instance, the two-hour lunch break is still practiced, and the people move at a much slower pace. Also, unlike Bogota, the people smile a lot, and seem to take time for simple pleasures, like cigarettes, coffee, and conversation. The drivers aren't as frantic in Manizales, either...
So... as far as safety: I walked around the central district day and night, and was steered away from only a couple of streets. I also found a Tejo cancho, and was dragged to a cancho to play by some young ( or young to me-- early to mid-20's) players who wanted to make sure that I "got a good impression of Colombians." Even during the Copa America I wasn't concerned with, for instance, being kidnapped, or with trouble.
I did hear from the english teacher that some rebels were moving into some of the poorer barrios. But there's an infantry battalion stationed there-- it's too close to the cafetera to not have infantry stationed around there.
Also, in driving through paisa-- the region sort of framed between Manizales, Antiochia, and all the way to medellin (once again, don't quote my geography as gospel), there were a lot of carabineros, a lot of checkpoints. These didn't casue me to feel unsafe, but they did reinforce that Colombia's in a civil war...
I can easily recommend Manizales as a destination. I think that once the civil war ends, tourism will take off in Colombia, and in this region especially. If someone likes hiking or the mountains, it's spectacular. Also, shop owners and hotel owners speak openly about how secure this region is.
Yankees are curiosities here... I saw some graffitti, but it was in the areas near the free university of Caldas, and I walked around the University, spoke to students, and didn't feel threatened.
Well, I hope I answered some questions, and if there are any more, please feel free to ask.