Ukraine trip report Day 1

[Jski]

[This message has been edited by Jski]

I'll break up this report into a few pieces for easier posting and reading.

Disclaimer: I used WOVO in the end.  I don't claim it to be the best way, only that it was the way I felt comfortable with.  There is also a 13 year age difference between us.  Again I know some will find fault with this, but try to take both these as what I'm happy with and not something I'm telling anyone else to do.  :-)  (Flame retardant suit on) Here goes...

I had spent some time writing to a few women in Ukraine and Russia and had continued to narrow down my list as some months past.  There was one that I was very interested in, that I had met from one of the free sites.  In fact, all of the women I wrote to in the beginning and throughout were from one free site or another.  I didn't set much criteria as I wanted to get to know the person behind the photo, but I had mainly searched for 0-10 years difference, with some English ability and preferred if they had children as I do as well. I didn't want any interpreters involved as I wanted to hear what the woman was saying and not what someone wanted me to hear.
In the end, I narrowed my choice to one in October and continued the e-mailing and phone calls.  Toma was actually outside my original age range and I wrote her taking a chance as we have daughters the same age.  In the end, it was the best choice I had made. In mid-October I also got my tickets as I was going to Kiev whether it be for meeting someone, or just a vacation to somewhere I always wanted to go. Its hard for me to get time off of work and my travel schedule is constantly changing, so all I could manage was 11 days off.

My trip was set for January 17 - 27.  I was flying on air miles, so I went the AA - BA route that leave me in London overnight on the way back.

Day one went well.  I left Wichita early in the morning and arrived in London at 6am.  I had  nine hours to kill before my next flight to Kiev and the BA Lounge seemed like the most comfortable way to do it.  I caught some sleep there, had a shower and food before my Kiev trip as I wanted to look at least half Human for my arrival.  The flight from London to Kiev was nearly empty.  Maybe 40 people on the 737-400 and none in Business.  I did see quite a few American passports as we checked in for the flight.  We arrived 15 min late and my first impression was "Wow, big terminal, why only two gates?".  I fumbled through the immigration forms and cleared OK (even after getting in the line that said Dignitaries and Diplomats, they never said anything and went ahead and processed me....seemed faster than those qued in the other lines).  The bags started coming out and I waited.......and waited.......and waited some more.  It was after I was the last one standing there and the belt had stopped that I realized that this was going to be a problem.  I found someone who knew a bit of English and found the bag office.  After a bit of paperwork and searching, I was told that my bags were still in London and would arrive the next evening on the BA flight.  They would deliver them after the flight got in.  Two points here, First is apparently it takes longer than 9 hours for American Airlines to get bags to British Airways at Heathrow as that's how long they had to accomplish this simple task.  Second, I'm so glad I decided to stay in Kiev for a few days instead of heading to the Crimea as they wouldn't have brought my bags to the Crimea.  This also worked well in the end as there was no wait in Customs by this time and I have nothing but a carry-on which they weren't interested in, also, BA would clear my bags for me the next day (or so I thought :-)

I had arranged Toma's pick-up from the other airport earlier in the day as well as to have her brought to meet me for my flight.  Jack came through and Galina was there with my girl (who was worried by this time as the other passengers had left and I was not there).  She cried a bit when she hugged me as Galina gave the info to the baggage people where I would be staying.  From the moment I saw her, I knew that I had made the right choice.  We headed off to the apartment and I had asked to stop to buy a few items like shampoo on the way.  In the store we stopped at a very friendly local picked up on my English and declared "Ahh, American boy, come you drink Vodka with me" to which both Galina a Toma seemed a bit embarrassed by the stereotype.  They got him pried away from me and away we went.  

The apartment was great.  Galina got us settled in and left and it was just us.  Toma looked amazing!! I was surprised that she had already started cooking a meal for me as she thought I would be hungry.  I showered and we ate and talked and just wanted to spend time together.  Since my bags were not there, I had no presents for her that night, they would have to wait until the airline found my bags.  It was a really great day and I was just happy to be in Kiev with her and she felt the same.

(One note:  The stewardess on the Newark to London flight commented that it would no longer be in service after January.  The traffic was just too light to justify it.  As it was, everyone in coach had a complete center section to themselves on that flight except two couples sitting in front.  That's the American Airlines flight in case anyone is planning on using it)

[Jski]

... in response to Ukraine trip report Day 1, posted by Jski on Jan 28, 2003

Epilogue:

First, Thanks to all for the kind words and comparisons of me to Richie / Opie :-)

Thanks as well for your compliments on Toma and Polina.  The pictures are just some of 180 or so that I took while I was there and I could have made 10 times that amount given the chance.

I had read many of the reports here from the archives and every page that Patrick has stored on here.  It was a great help and a good laugh at times.  Despite some bickering, we are all mostly her for one purpose and I learned a lot from reading what the rest of you have experienced.  I hope something in my words can help someone else in the future.  I still have a lot to learn, but that's what each new day is for :-)

For those of you that have been there and have had a good experience, you know what a great time it can be.  This is one trip I will never regret making no matter what.  It was worth every penny and each small problems encountered really didn't matter.  Toma and Galina seemed more worried about my luggage than I was, but perhaps that was because my clothes were smelling bad by then.

For those of you wondering whether you should go, the answer is a resounding YES!!  Do it any way you feel comfortable with.  Visit on, visit one hundred, but just go!  You'll have fun!  I went in the worst season (winter) and I would gladly do it again.  The people I met were friendly and the woman I met and got engaged to is truly one of my dreams.  She is smart, pretty, feminine, yet takes charge in what she feels is her realm.  She is frugal, but not to an obsession and really goes out of her way to make me feel special.  She's a woman in the true sense of the word, and she always takes the opportunity to stress that she is "My Russian Woman"!  

For those of you going soon, please take the time to post a report, no matter how long or short it is I think we all learn something from it, or at least its a good chance to bring back some great memories.  Pictures are always nice as it helps to connect the face to the name, but I understand the trepidation for some of you about posting pics.

I'll be looking forward to sharing the visa process with you (including the frustrations and the final happy moments in Warsaw).

I hope that by the fall I will have joined that group of you that are married and still posting your early marriage anecdotes for us to share in.

Once again, Thanks to all the guys, and those ladies, who take the time here to help others!

[John F]

... in response to Trip Report:  Epilogue and Thanks!, posted by Jski on Jan 29, 2003

John, your trip report brought back many pleasant memories!  Thanks.  Congratulations on your engagement.  I know everything will work out fine and you two will have many happy years together.  I stayed with my wife and her parents in Yalta during the last part of July and first part of August.  It was a great time as we swam in the Black Sea almost every day and enjoyed walking the seaside embankment a number of nights and having COFFEE and cake at one of the open air cafe's.

[Jski]

... in response to Ukraine trip report Day 1, posted by Jski on Jan 28, 2003

Day 8:

Departing.......

So far my trip has seemed like a month long, but I mean that in a good way.  I had completely forgotten about work, my house remodeling and all other cares and was just enjoying being with girl and her daughter.  Today reality is setting in.  It would be time to leave.

Toma was not happy that I was going (you can kind of see it in her expression in the "Ring Picture".  We discussed the time apart and I agreed that maybe I would return in April or May if the Visa was going slow.

My Simferopol-Kiev flight was scheduled for 11am and we left the apartment at 9:30 for the short drive.  It was quiet in the car on the way over.  The weather was dense fog and the sidewalks slick with a thin coat of ice.  I was secretly hoping that the flight would be delayed or cancelled due to the weather.  We paid the driver to wait to take her and Polina home and they followed me into the airport.  Domestic baggage allowance on Crimea Air is 20kg, I had 35kg on the nose.  I was expecting a hefty charge, but was surprised when asked for only 40gr more.  I'll remember that if we need to haul stuff to Kiev for her departure.

Since she could not follow me beyond, we said our goodbyes there.  I missed her on days without e-mail, I'll really miss her now.  Polina looked so cute all bundled up and she wanted a kiss too.

Off I go on my own again through the airport.  I made it through the metal detector and X-ray without a strip search (something I'm sure the screeners in Wichita and Dallas relish in).
I have an hour to wait for my flight and I notice that all the announcement are being made in Russian.  More like Russian spoken into a megaphone that's being submersed in a bowl of oatmeal.  I line up when others do for the bus, but then discover that I'm the only one in the line with a green boarding card, they all are flying Aerosvit and I'm in the wrong line, so I sit back down.  I spy some others with Green boarding cards and decide I would follow them if they lined up....My only hope of getting on the right plane.

Our flight is called, we que up and head out.  My first flight on an Anotov AN-24. When I get in line to board I'm told to take my bags to the other side of the plane first, then get back in line.  The first thing I spot is the mechanics doing fuel checks into a mason jar.  I spot the water in the fuel and they apparently do as well as they take a hose and start dumping fuel from the check valve onto the Tarmac. Oh my, I'm going to die....  My bags are loaded and I walk back around.  I find it a good idea not to look at the plane anymore after spying some lap patches with missing fasteners and other anomalies (I'm also a Licensed A&P Mechanic).  I step on the plane and think that I've gone back to the 1950's.  The rear part has forward and aft facing seats across a table in the middle, the forward rows are all front facing seats, but thin tubes with spring wire, cloth and no padding.  If I didn't know better I would swear I was on a C-47.  We are seated, the door closed and de-icing begins.  I see the ice coming off the windows and steam rising....Oh no, surely they aren't using Hot Water.  As the crew moved to the other side I see the windows begin to re-freeze, though this time its not rhime icing, its clear.  I quit looking as its better that way :-)
The engines crank forever and we start.  Shortly before takeoff we are given a piece of orange candy.  I stuff that in my pocket for later.  The plane is full, but I'm the only English speaker in earshot so I put on some headphone and stare straight ahead.  We get some announcement and next comes a small plastic cup of water or soda, then a wrapped plastic tray with a roll, cheese, a wafer cookie bar and a piece of chocolate, again more liquid is served, this time cherry juice (coolaid?).......I think of Rev. Jim Jones and kindly decline.

The rest of the flight is uneventful.  Its noisy without the headphones.  I would suggest them or earplugs for anyone fling an AN-24.  We arrive in Kiev on time and Galina is waiting.  Her driver is not there as traffic is bad.  Putin, Shevardnadze, and other eastern leaders are coming in for a summit the next day and the police are practicing closing streets today.  We go to the train station to store my luggage until I leave later (its 1pm and my flight is not until 8:45pm).  Galina spends the next few hours taking me to various markets to shop.  I manage to pick up more CD's (Wow, ArchiCAD, Office XP, Norton2003 for $2, gee I wonder if its a licensed version....I better take it home and check :-).  I also buy some souvenirs for my desk and others at work as well as one of those Soviet watches.
Next stop.....Coffee!  We found the closest thing to Starbucks as we could and I had some great pastries an a mocha, ahh, heaven in Kiev! The final place was the internet cafe.  It was Sunday and three were crowded, but we found space at a fourth one and relaxed for an hour.  I got caught up on the mail and sent Toma a note as well as announcing my engagement to a few via e-mail.  Time was up and we would need to head to the railway station for my bags and then the airport.  I realized then that I had walked miles that day through Kiev, but felt fine.  Here I complain when I have to walk 3 blocks.

Galina got me to the airport with plenty of time to spare.  We said goodbye and I headed to the customs desk.  I chose the Green Line and was only asked how much money I had with me and for my passport.  I only claimed the American cash and was waived on through.  The waiting hall is huge, but with little traffic at that time of night.  I did notice that there were quite a few young and pretty Russian ladies heading to London on the flight.  I would guess university age and maybe that's how they got the visa.  The flight went well and we arrived within 15 min of schedule.  Low and behold my bags are there too, amazing :-)

I need to get to Gatwick for my morning flight, but the Transit Link bus has stopped running for the night.  I opt against getting a hotel as I know that I will only get a few hours sleep anyway.  The lady suggests Jet Link at the counter, which can be found in the central bus station.  I found another bus marked "Oxford - Heathrow - Gatwick" and that driver tells me that Jet Link is 17 Pounds and he is 12 Pounds, though since I only had American cash he gave me a lousy exchange rate.  I didn't care, I just wanted to settle in at Gatwick.

The rest is uneventful.  I got some coffee and food at McDonalds (the only place open in Gatwick at midnight) and stretched out on a bench (passport and wallet in front pocket, briefcase and jacket under my head.  I didn't care if they stole my luggage, I only wanted to get home and have Toma's documents with me!!!! :-)  Besides, my luggage has developed a social life of its own on this trip.  2 flights left and they went without a hitch (I did move seats on the London Dallas flight when they guy next to me pulled out a copy of "Out" magazine and started staring at the Pictures of topless Men......Hey, to each his own, but I'm an engaged man now!!!! :-)

[tim360z]

... in response to Ukraine trip report Day 1, posted by Jski on Jan 28, 2003

it was a great read.  I think you will both do great together, Cheers, Tim

[Jski]

... in response to Ukraine trip report Day 1, posted by Jski on Jan 28, 2003

Day 6:

Anyone getting bored yet?

Ah, my first day of bad weather.  Its raining lightly this morning, but rather mild.  That will cancel any walking about plans we have for early morning.  This morning I was relegated to Tea for breakfast.  There was no coffee in this apartment and I think Toma is secretly happy about that :-)  I do have a can of Turkish coffee that her Mom gave me, but no sense taking a chance.

We decide to head back to Simferopol after breakfast as its still raining.  Her friends husband offers to drive us back there.  I felt bad about him using his gas after giving us the apartment too, so I give him something to cover both and he seems happy.  Quite a large man with a deep voice that speaks some English but I have a hard time understanding it through the deep tone.

Back the way we can, only its foggy and raining through the hills until we reach the outskirts of Simferopol.  I notice quite a sharp contrast between the City Apartment blocks and some of the smaller communities just outside the city.  It almost looks like little subdivisions popping up....Oh my god, urban sprawl has reached Ukraine.  I also noticed quite a few houses are in various stages of being finished.  Some look like the owners are living in the part that is done and finishing as they go.  So it that block a type of sand stone?  Almost looks like some of the Cut Coral blocks I see in the Middle East.

We arrived back before noon today and my first task was to watch Polina while the ladies go shopping for food.  We have a bit of a communications gap and I'm not understanding some of what she is saying (I later found out that when she was running around the house she was saying "Tickle Me" and "You can't catch me").  Polina becomes frustrated several times with my not understanding and decides that whacking me on the head will help.....I quickly put a stop to that notion.  The ladies are home and I'm saved!  

I also got to meet another friend of hers today and the three girls spend a couple hours together in the kitchen, in return, I get full control of the remote and 10 all Russian channels to watch.

Again she decides to cook for me instead of going out somewhere.  Its not easy fitting 5 around the small table, but the food is great and I'm feeling right at home now.

I'm also trying to fix her computer for her.  It crashed 2 weeks before my arrival and we had been down to sending text messages on the cell phones for the last two weeks.  It just needed a reload of windows.

Her one friend that teaches her English also helps us this evening with filling out all the paperwork (G325's for her and Polina) that we will need.  Toma had taken some time during the previous week to gather Birth Certificates, Divorce Decrees and the other documents she felt were needed after I sent her the link to Doc Steen's site.  She read it completely and was well prepared.  All had been notarized and translated.  I managed to download the G-325A on her computer and I typed it all in so we didn't need to fill in all those copies by hand.  With the forms printed now, we relax....

The rest of the day passes uneventful.  One of her friends takes Polina for the night so we can be alone.

Day 7:

The friends are back early.  I had time to sneak in some coffee while she was showering, though it now seems its OK to have a couple cups in the morning and then a couple later on.  I did notice that she has been substituting my coffee for Decaf when she makes it for me.......Grrr, Decaf???  Same as a Brown Crayon dipped in Hot Water.  Oh well, life's full of compromises.

Today was shopping day. Another friend stops by before we leave and now I've gotten to meet all the ladies she has written about.  This one has a fiance in Holland.  All her friends were really great ladies.  They all spoke English quite well and that let me converse quite a lot with them, which was great!

Off we go to the market.  Toma wants to take the mini-bus for 60 kp, I'd rather just take the taxi, but she wins.  First stop in the book market.  She had been looking for a copy of the Webster's English - Russian Dictionary.  The big one with 180,000 words.  We found it there and at a good price so I bought it for her.  I also looked around for more CD's or books, but found none that I needed.  Since it was Saturday, it was quite crowded and I did notice that there seems to be very little need to go in a normal store as you can buy just about anything you need from people on the sidewalks or in the bazaars.  Food, Milk, eggs, trinkets, batteries, toys, smokes, you name it.  Our next stop was the computer store.  While fixing her computer I notice that the 14" monitor she had looked terrible.  The Blue gun was going out and everything had an awful green tint to it, so I wanted to buy her a new monitor.  We hit three stores and I finally found a 17" Samsung for a little more than $100.  More than I would pay here, but not bad.  I noticed that they had some full no-name systems at a reasonable price ($400 - $600) and better yet, they had good components in them, not "no Name" stuff.  I told her if the computer goes out again, to let me know and I would send her the money for a new one (we will give the computer to her parents when she leaves so they can stay in touch).  Now with book and monitor in hand, we have no choice but to take the taxi :-)  Good planning!

We get home and I set everything up.  It looks much better now and my eyes feel good.  I checked my e-mail and found 250 messages....Argh, I wonder what my work in box looks like.  

I'm feeling that I don't want to leave now.  I know the time is getting close and I feel so much at home.  I do miss my daughter though, but ponder to myself if I could really live over there someday.  We had talked about it and I told her that I would move there if she wanted if it weren't for my ex and her visitation time (I have custody of our daughter, but we get along well and share the time 50/50 with her).  We even discussed someday buying a home in Yalta or Alushta area and using it for vacation until I retire.  I wonder if the Antonov company needs any Aerospace Engineers?

Toma is anxious about something, but the message isn't coming across.  I'm thinking that its the idea of our parting soon, but it turns out differently.  One of her friends comes in to talk to me.  She said Toma told her of my proposing by the castle and she thought that was great and if I was going to get her a ring.  I had offered twice, but she said nothing more on the subject so I thought I would get one in the Gold Souks of Dubai on my next business trip, though I really wanted Toma to pick it out.  Toma came back in the room and asked if we could go today.  The anxious mood before was her wanting me to offer to get her the ring, not to ask for it and time was getting short.

Back out to town we went to find a Jeweler late on a Saturday afternoon.  With luck, two of the three were still open.  Though we were finding it a problem to find a ring in her size (15.5 Russian....5.5 - 6 American).  I told her to pick anyone that she wanted in the last store and we would get it sized, or she could after I left.  If I would have done this with my ex-wife, I would be leaving the Jewelry store with a small mortgage, but Toma picks out a very nice, small, Russian diamond surrounded by smaller stones with white and yellow gold.  It looks great on her and I ask the price........About $300, but he doesn't take Visa like the first store.....  So, back out to the ATM we go.  We made it in time and while we were gone the Jeweler called another friend that agreed to stay open until we could get there and he would size it for us tonight.  On the way to cross the street using the tunnels, I spy a flower shop and buy 11 long stemmed roses for her. She wants to take the mini-bus again, but I point to the time and we agree the taxi is best.  It turns out that this other place is right close to her apartment.  After a 1/2 hour of work, the ring now fits and this second Jeweler dismisses any effort to pay him for his work, offers his congratulations and sends us on our way with a smile.

We get home and her friends are getting ready to leave.  They had watched Polina for us and now wanted to go out for the night.  Toma is really enjoying showing them her ring and saying that its a piece of me with her. They have to leave though, so we say our goodbyes to them as I would not see them again this trip.  Her one friend give me a smile and a thumbs up as she heads out the door.

We tried to go out to dinner tonight, but all the places are either full, real noisy, or topless (we have a four year old in tow :-), so after some walking around, we decide to celebrate at home.  Toma makes some dinner and I start packing as I leave in the morning for Kiev.  Its hard stuffing all the gifts, both for me and my daughter, in the bags.  After dinner we gather the rest of the paperwork and she signs it all.  Now we just spend the rest of the evening talking about what will be coming up, life here in the states and other things.  I really don't want to leave......

[petem]

... in response to Ukraine trip report Day 1, posted by Jski on Jan 28, 2003

I have AA frequest flyer miles, how many was it for the filght, was it worth it?? 9 hour layover and overnight on way back seems not worth it to me to save $600, which is what Aeroflot charges from Wash DC anyway?

[MarkInTx]

... in response to Re: Ukraine trip report Day 1, posted by petem on Jan 29, 2003

The amount of FF miles is different depending on when you go. I want to say that it was 60,000 miles peak, and 40,000 miles after October 15th... but I might be fuzzy on that. I had so many of the things in my account, I ddin't pay attention.

It may be different from DC, but for me the three times I did it, my ticket would have been $1200 or more.

My layover was over-night. I found a nice hotel near Gatwick for about $69. It was actually not a bad way of breaking up the trip. I didn't mind the layover. In some way, it was better to do the overnight than to sit in an airport for 6 hours... IMHO.

(BTW, my favorite connection was the American Airlines flight through Gatwick. I like Gatwick better than Heathrow... and there is an Admiral's Club there which was a nice place to relax (and sleep in if you get there early enough.) Also, you fly the 777 with extra leg-room which is so much better than the gawd-awful Delta/Air France flight I took. Every time someone in front of me reclines their seat on a Delta flight, I feel like I am a dentist waiting to examine their teeth... )

[Jski]

... in response to FF Miles and American Airlines, posted by MarkInTx on Jan 29, 2003

You got it right.  

40K from Oct 15 to May 15

60K otherwise

90K Business class 120K First Class (no season break)

If you don't have an Admirals Club card, AA will let you in on a Business or First Class International on the day of travel.

British Airways will let you in on any ticket based on having a Gold, Platinum or Executive Platinum card.  

More food and drink choices, better sleeping chairs and showers in the British Airways executive lounge......Also, free internet access on 8 computers in BA

[Jski]

... in response to Re: Ukraine trip report Day 1, posted by petem on Jan 29, 2003

40K miles and $41.25 for the flight.  Its a lot more for me leaving from Wichita.  I think next time I'll burn some domestic miles to New York and take that Air Ukraine flight direct......How I wish I still lived in Chicago :-)

[petem]

... in response to Re: Re: Ukraine trip report Day 1, posted by Jski on Jan 29, 2003

Thanks, I have just over 40k on AA
So there is a non stop to Kiev from NY? How much $$ is that?
Aeroflot flys from Wash Dullas to JFK then to MOscow then KIev for about $600. there is a direct from DC to Moscow in summer only for same price.

[Jski]

... in response to Re: Re: Re: Ukraine trip report Day 1, posted by petem on Jan 30, 2003

Air Ukraine Flies (Under a code share with Air Uzbekistan) New York to Kiev.  AA routes through London to BA.  They are tied in with Finnair in the OneWorld Alliance so I'm going to try and route myself first and present it to the reservations agent next time to see if they can do it (Here to Helsinki to Kiev).  When I have the time I don't mind the layover, but if I'm pressed its a waste.

[Stan]

... in response to Ukraine trip report Day 1, posted by Jski on Jan 28, 2003

Great Post. Thanks so much. It takes me back to the first time I flew in "Behind the Curtin". I (they)lost my luggage once flying into Donetsk,
Thank God I've got a friend there, Mariupol, who drives his P.O.V. as a taxi or I never would have gotten those bags. Is your fiance' from Evapitoria? Next time you visit the in-laws, check out the limestone cliffs an hour or two to the north of there, Tarenkut, or something like that. She sure is a "cutie",, Toma is real pretty too!   And I wouldn't worry too much about the coffee thing, Tanya just learned to drink more coffee once she found a good coffee shop with a good latte'.
Thanks again,
Stan

[Jski]

... in response to Re: Ukraine trip report Day 1, posted by Stan on Jan 28, 2003

Thanks!  My fingers are hurting!  

She was born in Evpatoriya, but lives in Simferopol now.  Her folks are still there though.

I sure hope the coffee thing changes :-)  Its an old Navy habit that's gonna be hard to quit if not.......But then again, she's worth it! :-)

[MarkInTx]

... in response to Re: Re: Ukraine trip report Day 1, posted by Jski on Jan 28, 2003

"French Vanilla Cream"

Get some of that at the grocer, and make her a cup with that cream and some suger.

I've turned more non coffee drinkers into coffee drinkers with that than you can imagine...

Don't take her to Starbucks, though... If she will only drink that high falutin' stuff, you'll go broke...